✅ FREE SHIPPING on $100+ orders
Orders placed Monday – Friday (excluding holidays) by 3pm CST will ship the same day. Orders placed after 3pm CST will ship the following business day.
Frequently Asked Questions:
It's the most common DIY approach for hot and warm climates. AtticFoil® is stapled horizontally across the underside of the rafters, starting at the bottom and moving toward the ridge, keeping the radiant barrier between the hot roof deck and the attic space below.
Yes. A 3-6 inch gap at the eaves allows cool air to enter from soffit vents, and a similar gap near the ridge lets hot air escape. These gaps keep air circulating through the attic as if the foil weren't there. Even if you don’t have roof venting, we still recommend you leave these gaps.
No. Taping seams has no impact on performance. The foil is perforated and not designed to create an airtight seal. Tape is optional and only useful for making the installation look tidier or attaching pieces across spans with no rafters.
No, direction has zero effect on how the radiant barrier performs. Horizontal runs are simply recommended because they're faster and easier to manage across a wide attic.
Most homeowners can handle a staple-up radiant barrier installation as a DIY project with basic tools: a staple gun, utility knife, and a helper. The process is straightforward, though a second person makes it significantly easier. We have complete install guides on our website, accessible via the main menu.
With proper ventilation gaps maintained, the effect on shingle temperature is minimal, typically only 2-10°F warmer, which falls well within acceptable limits and won't shorten the life of your roof.
That's perfectly fine. Radiant barrier works cumulatively, so partial coverage still reduces heat gain. Focus on the large open sections first, then fill in smaller or hard-to-reach areas as time allows.
You can either cut the AtticFoil® to fit around them or drape it over the top and connect it to the piece below. For blocking that restricts airflow, let the foil sag slightly below it or cut a small opening to keep air moving upward.
Yes. Two techniques, the skirt method and the slit method, make it easy to add blown insulation later without compromising attic ventilation. The skirt method uses a foil overhang as a backstop; the slit method leaves a small gap between the lowest two runs to allow airflow from the soffits.
No. Radiant barrier doesn't require ridge vents specifically. Hot air will find its way out through whatever exhaust vents you have, ridge vents, wind turbines, gable vents, or powered fans. The key is simply making sure there's a path for air to exit near the top of the attic.
How Radiant Barrier Works
How Radiant Barrier Works
Calculate How Much Foil
You Will Need
We show you how to measure your attic before you buy.