Have an account?
Log in to check out faster.
Loading...
You've done your research, you've measured and now it's time to decide: which install method is the best one?
The Staple Up (Open Ridge) method is the standard method used most often in WARM or HOT climates for wide open attics.
Our 26″ wide AtticFoil radiant barrier was made specifically for these truss style attics that have the rafters spaced 24″ apart on center.
This method is great if you do not have any ductwork in the attic (or if it's buried in the insulation) and do not use the attic space.
Depending on your install method, there are a couple of ways to measure your space to see how much AtticFoil™ you need. Click to read more.
This method is simply a combination of laying radiant barrier foil on the attic floor where you can’t reach to staple it up, and then stapling it up everywhere else.
We developed the Flat Top method to make installations in tall attics easier, faster, and safer.This method is the ideal radiant barrier installation method for both high-pitch, hard-to-reach attics and standard-type attics.
When the radiant rays from the sun hit a gable wall, it absorbs that radiation and re-radiates it across the attic, just like the slopes of the roof do. Therefore, you should use a radiant barrier in this area to block radiant heat gain.
Radiant barriers work by blocking radiant heat from being absorbed into our homes, garages, sheds, etc. resulting in a more comfortable and energy efficient space.
First, you fully have to understand what exactly radiant heat is.
Real installations from customers all across the USA.
Our sample packet includes a larger piece of our BEST SELLING double-sided, perforated, pure aluminum radiant barrier as well as three smaller pieces of our other products.
Have you ever noticed that your air conditioner will still run on a 70º sunny day, but barely turn on when it’s a CLOUDY 80º day?
It seems logical that the roof gets hotter if radiant barrier is reflecting 97% of the radiant heat back through the roof assembly. However, the effect isn't what you might think.
In any application that has the potential for moisture accrual (like a vented attic space), you want to use a perforated product, NOT a solid/vapor barrier. When should you use a solid? Click to learn more.
Are foil-foam, foil bubble wraps, fiberglass + foil products better than AtticFoil®? Big-dollar advertising tries to convince you some other product is better, but what's the TRUTH?
What Are the Expected Savings with AtticFoil™? Is it worth the investment?Does radiant barrier work? Find out here.
Find answers to: is there a top or bottom, are both sides the same? Can drywall be applied on top of the foil? What is the R-value of your radiant barrier? and more.
Technical specifications, Dept of Energy test results, SDS, fire testing info, EnergyStar rating, and more can be found here.
R-Value is a term to describe how quickly heat will pass through (or be absorbed) by a product. Find out more about R-value here.
Why do we often need to run our A/C units on mild temperature sunny days? The answer explains how regular insulation and radiant barrier work differently to compliment one another.
Find all the information you need for your radiant barrier projects in one place!
